Travel

Straigona Bed & Breakfast, Orkney

Note: This is an out-of-sequence post about our recent trip to Scotland. More to come.

A little more than half-way through our trip, it was time to trade in our car for an airplane. The 45-minute flight from Inverness to Kirkwall would be a nice change after spending many days driving. Plus, this flight was between two little airports, minimizing the usual big-airport hassles. No long lines, no bus rides to distant terminals, no long treks to far away gates…everything in one place. And, you get to walk right out onto the tarmac to board the airplane–what fun!
Arriving in Kirkwall, we checked in with the car rental office (again, it was right there–no shuttle ride needed!), obtained the keys, and went off to find the car. After throwing the luggage in the back and ourselves in the front, we looked at each other and wondered (not for the first time) how we would find our way to our new “home.” It was getting on towards evening, we’d been traveling all day, we were a bit stressed out, and Google Maps was no longer being helpful. It was time for extreme measures. I took a deep breath, and I proceeded to use the phone as a phone. Brilliant.

And, by golly, it worked. In just a few seconds I was talking with Julie at Straigona B & B who assured me that we were only minutes away… a left, another left, and a quick right at the chicken coop. She’d even be waiting outside the front door looking for us and waving us in. Well, she wasn’t kidding… in 2 minutes we were there, and Julie was on the front porch waiting. I had no idea that I’d picked a B&B so conveniently located.

Straigona is a lovely 2-story modern house (but be careful… what we in the States would call the 2nd floor is called the 1st floor in the UK. I had forgotten that and was expecting to be on the ground level–not a preference, I just remembered reading on the website about the rooms being on the 1st floor. All the guest rooms are up one level, which is actually BETTER for reasons I’ll explain later. But I digress…) complete with chickens in the front yard, cats in the house (but not allowed in the guest areas), and sheep across the street. Perfect! We hauled our bags out of the car and into the foyer.

As we gazed around, Julie gave us a warm welcome and pointed out a few items of interest. The stairs behind us led up to the guest rooms–there are three… ours was named Inganess.  Shelves along the wall and staircase held brochures, guidebooks, maps, binoculars, and games. A short hallway led to the back of the house and the dining room where there was always homemade baked items available 😊 and a refrigerator for our use. We put in a request for a picnic lunch the next day and headed up to the room.

Standing just inside the door, we noticed the usual wonderful B&B amenities–charming double bed plus a single, two reading chairs, dresser with tea service, and attached bathroom. But the best thing about Inganess was the window! I didn’t measure it, but it was big. And, here is where being on the 2nd floor (in US-speak) paid off–the view. The window opened outward with no screen so you could stick your head (or your camera) out and take in the view–sheep, airport, sea, and sky. Fabulous! And at night–stars, Moon, even aurora, if you’re lucky. I highly recommend Inganess, if you can get it.

The next morning, we came downstairs to a lovely breakfast and this was waiting for us: img_3937
Truly, the best picnic lunch ever… ham and cheese (local!) sandwiches, chips, thermos of hot water for tea, thermos of milk, and more baked items. 😊 What made it even better is that we ate it here: img_3931…the ancient settlement of Skara Brae. Well, okay, so we ate it in the car while parked outside the visitor center at Skara Brae because it was cold and windy, but still…

After the restorative lunch, we headed down to the beach at Skara Brae. Wild and beautiful.img_3932

After spending a happy hour or so dodging waves and scouting around for interesting beach stuff, we headed back to Straigona.img_3934

Sitting in cozy Inganess, sipping tea and watching the sky, we realized–once again–that there was no way we’d be able to experience even 1/4 of what this area of Scotland has to offer. Although we did get to see a stone circle, a beautiful cathedral, and some amazing countryside, there was so much more. Two days were not enough.

So, way too soon, we were packing up and heading back to the little airport. img_4001

As we walked out to the plane, I turned to look across the fields at Straigona, giving it one last wave farewell and making a promise to return.straigona-rainbow

Travel

Rock Glacier & Beyond

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Today’s adventure in vertigo (or casadastraphobia or something….) involved a glacier–ice and rock. The persistent wind, blowing pretty steadily for a couple of days and nights now, put us off another try at the summit, so we opted to explore a little further along a trail we had hiked two years ago. This trail takes you up through alpine meadows, past a wonderful interpretive loop of Bristlecone Pines, and on up to a glacier–a good day’s hiking, at least for me. So, we ate our oatmeal, tossed back our coffee, and packed up the backpacks in preparation to hit the Bristlecone & Glacier Trail.

As we made our way to the trailhead, the aspen leaves continued to be amazing, both in their color and in their energetic animation. Joe walks onDSCN0708 (1)-2

ahead while I snap a few pictures. The air is fresh and cool and fragrant; the sun is fiercely bright in an ultra-blue sky. A few wisps of cloud soften the scene. As I look up the mountain, I think, “It’s almost too real.” DSCN0709-2-2

Then, it’s off we go, up the trail. First stop is the Bristlecone Pines. These amazing trees are among the oldest living things on the planet–some as many as 5000 years old! They have seen it all. They’re true survivors. These trees are slow-growing and have a tough, resiny wood. They can lose almost 90% of their outer bark and keep going. Just amazing. Joe and I had to spend a moment communing with these ancient entities, gazing up at them in awe and reverence. DSCN0713-2 DSCN0714-2

After spending some thoughtful moments in the grove, we continue up the trail towards the glacier. The trees thin out and eventually give way to rocks. The trail switches back and forth, going up and up, but unlike the summit trail, this one tends to wind upward through a valley.DSCN0733-2 I don’t have quite the sense of imminently plunging off the side of the mountain, as high walls seem to offer some protection from the great beyond.DSCN0732-2

At last, we see the glacier.DSCN0720-2

Two streams of ice come down the mountain in a “V” shape (barely visible in the left half of the picture above) and join together at the base of the cliff. This glacier is a bit dustier than I expected, but then it spends most of its time in the midst of blowing dirt and dust so I can’t complain. Between us and the ice lie more rocks! However, these rocks are actually part of the rock glacier (rock and ice together) and part of the glacier’s moraine (the debris pushed out ahead of the ice).

Joe and I decide to keep going. The trail rises more steeply and the footing is a bit slippery due to loose gravel and dirt. We make it across the moraine and up to the rock glacier at 10,800 feet. Beyond this, the trail disappears. If you want to cross the rock glacier, you need to make your own path up and over the rocks. At this point, I’m feeling pretty good about making it this far and decide to wait while Joe ventures ahead. I pull up a nice flat rock and settle in to watch his progress.

In a matter of minutes, he becomes a small dark blob, lost among the rocks. Every now and then he turns and waves his hiking poles at me. I think to myself, “If he twists his ankle, what would I do?” I quickly tell myself to STOP thinking that. DSCN0734-2

Can you see Joe in the picture above? He’s the dark ant-like figure just to the right of the central pile of dusty ice.  After a time, the ant begins to get larger, and I know Joe is on his way back. While I wait, I set up my travel pals for their own picture at the rock glacier 🙂DSCN0742